It is said that the eyes are the windows of our souls, but the truth is, the eyebrows are! They’re the ones that really express your emotions best, imagine trying to look surprised or angry without your brows.
Thought I had to have the whole lesson about face shapes and eye brows too, but I did some research and found this fab site, hare you can find pretty much everything there is to say about eyebrows!! Have fun!
Something I find quite amusing and I am actually quite amazed over that so many established makeup artists doesn’t see the forms. Take these examples above for example, this type of make up you can see almost everywhere and every day. But why would you want to make a shape of an eyeshadow that does nothing for the expression of the eye, nor the form but to leave about quarter of an inch fat highlight line underneath the eyebrow?
Applying a dark eyeshadow too high above the crease of the eyelid and on top of that a quite sharp edge, right ON the bone, you’d think you wanna highlight instead to bring it out, so that you can make the illusion of that where the crease are, is the deepest area. On the right eyes above here I have also shaped the brow for framing in the eye a little and made it pushing the eye little more towards middle of face, having the brow wide open and with a upward shape will help the illusion of the eyes further away from each other and then if applying a little dark shadow in the inner corner of the eyelid, towards the nose bone , will help making the illusion of that the eyes are more centered, or closer to each other. In this makeup design I also decided to make the illusion of the eye look a little more awake, letting the eyeshadow go in a soft upward shape in outer corner of the eyelid.
But the balance will also depend on how much face you have between the outer corner of your eye and your hairline. On the first picture the eyes will have the feeling of being wide apart, while on the second picture the eyes ar quite well balanced ant doesn’t give the impression of being so wide apart.
To change that makeup on the first face shape, on the one where it feels like the eyes are a bit wide apart, you could do something like this to change that illusion some. I have also made the brow a little shorter at the outer end. Be careful not to make the eye look to sad or heavy though, just because you decide to close in the eye and not make it as awake looking as the above samples. A nice and soft way to work with dark and light is to get some of those mid tones in there too, that will, most of the times, look softer and better toned.
Doing makeup is painting
Learning to paint entails judging tonal values of colours as well as the hue itself. Painting or applying makeup from dark to light is a good makeup art exercise for judging degrees of dark and pale. But its also here where you can start to see what it actually does for the shapes of your canvas/face. The usual practice of painting onto a white surface could give a misleading impression of the true tonal value of the colours. Painting onto a black art surface reverses this process and helps give a truer indication of the colours’ tones. Simplifying the setting into four basic tonal areas will enable you to render a more accurate portrayal of tones in doing makeup/painting.
Painting from dark to light forces the you to explore degrees of light and dark in a particular composition. This is made possible by working on a dark tone surface as opposed to a pale one.
Painting Dark to Light
The usual practice of painting onto a pale surface such as a light skin could actually mislead the the makeup artist student on the true tonal value of a particular colour when applied. This problem is made worse if working under a bright light, where any colour, regardless of how pale, will appear much darker than it actually is. This could lead to an overly-pale done makeup, this can of course seem quite contradictory since a makeup artist always want a lot of light, thats why we need really good light, bright is okay if the light has good color reproduction.
Simple Technique for Shading
Hopefully you have a teacher that may perform a demonstration on how to execute the makeup. The following tips might help:
- Half-close the eyes and simplify the area into four basic tonal areas: dark, mid-tones, pales and highlights.
- Begin with the part where you want the most depth, darkest areas first, which might be deep shadows or black objects. Use loose brush marks to block in shadows and subdued tones. This will force you to differentiate between dark areas and mid-tones.
- Work progressively paler, blocking in the mid-tones next.
- Keep working over the area, using ever paler colours, which might represent soft, high areas of light and pale parts and bone.
- Finish off with the highlights with neat white paint.
Once the painting surface has been covered, you may examine how the outlines of tonal divisions differ; some shadows will have blurred edges, in which case, blending with a soft brush will be necessary. In other areas, tonal divisions will appear more defined, as in the case of where you want the deepest illusion.
… and there will be more 🙂
I found this, sketches and text, on a makeup blog named
“makeup for life” which is a nice blog overall, but when it comes to do the part to where ones are trying to explain the forms and shapes of the eyes and how we can with corrector makeup, or, for that matter, use makeup to correct forms and shapes that we dislike or like to make an illusion of a more balanced esthetical expression. Anyway, I will try to at least get you to understand the essential point of making these sketches and what they are suppose to help you with, but sadly I have to say, very seldom will help you with, though theres nothing wrong whith the effort trying.
To make wide-set eyes appear close together, blend a taupe or brown shadow from the beginning of the brow down the sides of your nose to make the eyebrows appear closer together. Use a darker color in the inner half of the eyelid and blend it close to the corner of the nose to “pull” your eyes together. Save the lighter color for the outer half of the lid. When applying eyeliner, start from the inner corner of the eyes and stop right at the outer corner. Do not extend the line upwards or past the outer corner.
Like-wise, to make close-set eyes look wider apart, use a darker color on the outer half of the eyelid. Extend it above the eye and under the brow. Use a lighter color on the inner half and line your eyes starting from the middle and extend it up and out.
Avoid using a dark color on the eyelid which will only make your eyes look more recessed. Instead, opt for a lighter color and place a darker color only under the brow bone. Line your top and bottom lash lines and extend the line past the corner and upwards.
Blend your eyeshadow from the center of the eyelid and deepen it at the outer edge of the eye, extending it beyond the outer corner. Elongate your eyes by extending the liner past your outer corner for about 1/4 of an inch.
To uplift droopy eyes, use a light color from your lash line all the way to the brow bone. Line your upper lashes, extending the line diagonally upwards at the outer corner. Apply a darker eyeshadow from the extended liner to the crease. Blend inward and upward from the outer corner. Avoid lining your lower lashes but if you must, make sure the line is thin.
On smaller eyes, apply a light color on the lid and a darker color on the crease. Highlight the inner corner of your eyes with a shimmery color to open them up and remember to curl your lashes and apply mascara on both top and bottom.
If you are a beginner in eyeshadow application, remember to check out the most common terms used in eyeshadow application.
Photos: The Beauty Review.
Okej, good intensions, but for me looking at these drawings, theres basically no difference in them, at least not enough difference to actually teach someone to understand the art of doing makeup and and the art of working with light and dark, you remember art class in school? 😉
To be continued….
… does the world seem to teach doing makeup in the way of letting their students learn to copy 20-30 different makeup designs and let them believe that thats the the art of doing makeup? O.o
Thats just copying, that’s not the same as for real learning to see the forms of a face and being able to create anything with it in terms of esthetical expressions and esthetical communication.
This is quite tricky I have to say, first you have to know what kind of skin type you have or what kind of skin type you are going to apply the foundation on. And then you have to figure out what type of effect that you want by applying the foundation you choose, you want it light and invisible but still a bit matte or you want a full cover, matte but still with a little fresh, healthy skin, type of shine at the same time?
And then you have to color match the foundation with the skin you are applying it on. And not only that, you also want to use the foundation as a neutralizer and/or a freshener to the skin, because sometimes you have this little redness in your skin, or can be yellowness, oliveness or greyness… ehmmm, oh well! I think you get my point. Let’s work with redness for now and lets say you like to choose a very light foundation, say up to 4% pigmentation, thats from like a tinted day cream to a very light fluid foundation, it wont cover much, but it can still neutralize some of the redness in your skin if you choose the right nuance but going towards a little olive tone, which are in simple words, it got some green pigment in it, that will if you know your color wheel/schemes neutralize redness in the skin. And some yellow pigment, to give a little coldish skin tone some warmth. (To make it easy: Green and Yellow= Olive). Then perhaps you need to add a little more warmth or so, that you can do either with adding a little yellow pigmentation to your substance or just use a powder on the end that has that little yellow nuance, but for that type of light foundation I had in this example, you might not want to add any powder in the end, then you just have to add more warmth to your foundation before applying it.
For you who been doing make up for many years, this comes naturally without thinking whiles applying, but for many this is still hard after years working with applying makeup, but to try to explain this and teach it, is very hard because this is complexed, to really see the nuances in the same color takes a lot of training, and to on top of that be able to know what exact pigment/color to add to a foundation when you don’t find the right one in your bag is really tricky sometimes, and if you are a blond, pale skin makeup artist used to work in scandinavia with more of the northern European skin tones and travel to Asia, South America or other continents where you might end up working like Nairobi, Mozambique or South Africa, just as for give you a few examples, you will get into some color matching trouble, questioning yourself why you didn’t spend more time to really learn your color theory, because that’s no different to match a darker skin tone than a lighter if you just know your color theory. Is just colors and nuances. I hope to be able to get you to at least understand it, then you have to go on learning by doing!
Here are a tip on a brand that actually helps the client to know if the foundation is neutral or got a undertone: CARGO
Read this very interesting interview with awesome makeup artist Stephanie Wise!!